First up, the Holiday Sale:
Black Friday through Cyber Monday... and a week or two after that.
40% off at http://www.GailaviraJewelry.com
30% off at http://www.GoddessReturn.com
15% off at http://www.ShutUpAndCuffMe.com
All prices are already reduced. No coupon code needed.
Next up, one of my shops is going out of business. I'll be closing my Goddess Return shop so I can concentrate more on my other lines. That means that on top of 30% off holiday sale at http://www.GoddessReturn.com you can use the coupon code 20off to get an extra 20% off of the listed prices.This coupon code can only be used at http://www.GoddessReturn.com . This will be a permanent discount code that can be used at any time until the shop is closed. But if you use it now, on top of the 30% off sale, you'll be getting some really great deals!
And now for the giveaway!
I'm giving away a Copper and Blue Chalk Turquoise Necklace (shown below) this week on facebook. This is the last day to enter. See more details here: https://goo.gl/3tzVxv
Friday, November 27, 2015
First up, the Holiday Sale:
Friday, September 18, 2015
My first real attempt at a video tutorial.
Every time I show a drilled crystal point I've wrapped on facebook or deviantart, I get lots of people asking how to wrap undrilled crystal points. This is just one, very simple, way that I do them. There are lots of other styles you can do as well, but since this was my first attempt at a video tutorial, I thought simple was probably best.
I'm still trying figure out the best way to shoot video tutorials, so please try to excuse the couple spots in the video where the work is a little out of focus, or the few seconds where I accidentally moved out of the frame. I promise to try a little harder on the next one. ;)
For more tutorials (PDF) go to my website at http://tutorial.gailavira.com , or check out my tutorial shop on Etsy. http://gailaviratutorials.etsy.com (EU customer will only be able to place orders through Etsy)
If you prefer to watch this on youtube, you can find it here:
For this project I used a crystal point that is 31mm long and 8mm wide, About 20" (51cm) of 20g (.8mm) dead soft round wire, and about 6" (15.2cm) of 18g (1mm) round dead soft wire. If you use a larger crystal point, you will need to start with a longer piece of 20g wire, but the amount of 18g wire will be the same.
Saturday, September 12, 2015
People are always asking me how to put on ear cuffs and ear wraps, so I decided to do a quick video for you. Sorry it isn't narrated. I have a cold and am not speaking too clearly right now.
For the first type of ear cuff, stretch the ear slightly at the top, then put the opening in the cuff over the upper edge of your ear, then gently bring the cuff down, while rotating it into place.
For the elf ears, as well as the other type of wrap shown below, use your finger to hold the back and front wires open near the bottom, and slide the wrap over the top front of your ear. Sort of like sliding a bobby pin into your hair. Then keep sliding the wrap over the edge of your ear until it is in place.
I've seen a number of people say to bend the cuff or the back wire of an ear wrap to open it, then squeeze it closed when it is on your ear. Please don't ever do it that way! Every time you bend a piece of metal it stresses the area at and around the bend. After doing it too many times, the metal will become brittle and break. Following the instructions above, as illustrated in the video, will help your ear cuffs, elf ears and ear wraps last much longer.
You can find lots of styles of ear cuffs and wraps at Shut Up And Cuff Me
Sunday, February 15, 2015
I wrote this tutorial a couple years ago for Wirework Magazine, and now I've decided to offer it for free here on my blog. Using this lesson you will learn how to make a beautiful, graceful ring full of swirls and spirals using basic wire wrapping techniques. You can find the tutorial here on my Free Jewelry Project Tutorials page.
Wednesday, December 24, 2014
This one was a custom order for a friend. It was a hard one for me to figure out. She wanted ornate, frilly wirework, but I needed to be sure the stone was fully supported on the back. Lapis is a soft stone and I worried that, if it wasn't covered properly on the back that it would break on a bracelet. My solution was to use sterling sheet for a backplate and solder the wires for the cuff onto the back of the backplate. I drilled holes into the sheet to use for the netted bezel.
Monday, October 27, 2014
I've just posted 2 new tutorials today. Best of all, one of them is FREE.
First up is the Archer's Weave Earrings.
This lesson will teach you to make a beautiful pair of earrings using simple frame shaping techniques combined with my “Archer’s Weave”. The archer’s weave looks like tiny little arrows pointing towards each other and meeting in the middle. It’s a great way to add a unique texture to a project.
For this project you will be using 24 gauge wire to complete the weave with 18 gauge wire for the frame. You can vary the look of this weave by using different gauges of wire. The thinner the wire used for the weave, the finer the texture will be. For more noticeable “arrows”, 22 gauge wire woven over 16 gauge wire looks amazing!
I won’t be showing how to wrap the briolettes in this lesson. However, if you don’t already know how to wrap them you can find my free tutorial for wrapping Briolettes and Bead Clusters. Just click on the "Other Technique Tutorials" link just below the page banner to find it.
You can buy the Archer's Weave Earrings Tutorial on my web-site, Gailavira Tutorials, in my Craftsy store or in my Etsy tutorial shop.
Ok, now the freebie you've been waiting for. The Beaded Hoop Link Bracelet Tutorial
In this lesson you will learn how to shape beautifully simple links to create a bracelet. Beads are placed on the links to add a hint of sparkle, but you can make this without beads as well for a unique look.
You can find this one right here on my blog. Just go to the Free Wire Jewelry Making Projects page.
Wednesday, October 22, 2014
I've been getting a lot of requests lately for pieces that incorporate both leather and wirework. The wirework I got (um, we've been over that before, right?). The leather...eh... not so much. Leather is just a little out of my comfort zone. I don't use it much because I've never been good at finishing it off. Now that I'm accepting more of those orders I'm realizing that finishing off the ends is only a small fraction of what I need to know.
This bracelet was a practice piece for one of those orders. The issue I had here was that the customer didn't want the cuff to be more than half an inch wide, but the focal stone, as you can see, is a bit bigger. So, how to attach the stone in a way that fully supports it?
In this case I decided that a full metal back was in order. I attached the metal sheet, already cut to size, to the inside of the center of the cuff using a rivet. The rivet probably wasn't necessary, except that I was drilling holes in both the back plate and the leather at the same time. Riveting them together made it all stay in place while I did that.
As you can see in this photo, the leather covers the full back of the stone and is sandwiched between the stone and the metal. The wirework holds it all in place nice and tight.
Now that we have all that sorted out, I guess we should get back to my original concern. Finishing off the ends.
The one on the left was finished off with sheet metal, folded over the ends of the bracelet, and riveted in place. This is also the method I used to finish the bracelet from earlier.
The middle one is kind of hard to see correctly in this photo. It's the simplest I could think of, but I'm not really sure I like it. I cut the ends of the bracelet so they were rounded, then put a tube rivet into the leather. To attach the clasp I made large oval shaped jump rings from 16 gauge wire.
The bracelet on the right was, as you can probably already see, wrapped with wire. I think it gives it a nice character for certain types of designs, but I still like the riveted sheet metal ends better.
Monday, October 20, 2014
Wirework is what I do most, and most likely, best. But I do love to play with other materials and techniques as well. One of my favorites is polymer clay. I don't often get the time to work with clay, but when I do I love to make canes. I have so many canes sitting in a drawer that I will probably never get a chance to use all of them. It's not just the canes that I make with a specific design in mind either. It's all the canes I've made from all the beautiful bits of scrap that I cut off of the cane I was supposed to be making first. Usually when I make one cane, I get about 5 or 6 more smaller canes just out of what I cut off of the first one, or the leftovers of the beautiful colors I mixed up for the cane. Or extra pieces of a skinner blend (gradient). Some part of me just refuses to write all of it off as "scrap" to be mixed into oblivion and hidden underneath some other project.
The focal for this bracelet is from one of those scrap canes. It the simplest of all of them really. Just press a bunch of the cut off bits of the main cane together to make a thick rectangle, put it on top of a thin piece of black (or any other contrasting color, I just like black) and roll it up like any other jelly roll cane. I cut off a thick slice, baked it into a round pillow shaped bead, and quickly forgot about it.
Fortunately, while looking for a bead to use for this bracelet, I remembered this particular bead. One of the most common problems with making a framed bead style bracelet is that the bead likes to spin if you don't find someway to keep it stable. The usual fix for this is putting a wire across the back of the bead to keep it from turning. This usually works, but if you turn the bracelet over and look inside, it just seems to make it a little less pretty. I like the inside/back/etc of a piece to look pretty too. If you choose to let it spin though you risk it putting too much stress on the wire holding it in place, eventually breaking it. To correct that on this one, I used the flex shaft and a bur to create a groove all the way around the edge of the bead. This way, when I put the bead in place, I was able to press the frame into the groove. Now it looks just as pretty on the back of the bead as the front, plus it stays just the way it should.
Monday, October 13, 2014
I keep trying to come up with bracelets that work better for me. I like bangles, but I can't wear the ones without a clasp because it hurts my hand to scrunch it up enough to fit the bracelet over it. If I make them big enough that they don't hurt, they end up way too loose on my wrist. The ones with a clasp I'm always worried I'm going to bend out of shape just putting them on.
I needed to find a solution that. So, for this one, I made a focal with openings on both sides that will work sort of like part of a hinge. Then I made pieces that connect to each side by just curling the wire around it a little bit loosely (closed all the way, but large enough to move freely). Now I have a bracelet that fits perfectly and I won't have to worry about it getting bent out of shape just putting it on.
For the cuff part of the bracelet I used another new weave I've been experimenting with recently. It's a variation of the simple figure 8 weave that creates a zigzag pattern over the top of the weave. I could probably have achieved a similar look by creating the weave first, then adding the zigzag on top of it with another wire, but I just didn't want to go that route. By incorporating the zigzag into the weave I was able to reduce the number of wire ends that needed to be secured at the end of the weave, giving it a much cleaner looking finish.
Thursday, October 9, 2014
I've been wanting to play with corrugated metal for a while now. There are so many interesting ways you can manipulate the metal and so many different effects you can achieve all starting with an idea that is as simple as folding a paper fan. Regrettably, metal doesn't fold as easily as paper. That's what a Microfold Brake is for.
Even more regrettably, a Microfold Brake is way too expensive for my budget right now. Luckily for me (and many others with a similar budget) a Tube Wringer also works.
As the name implies, it's meant for wringing out tubes. You know, like getting out the last bit of toothpaste, or glue, or...you get the idea. But, because of those neat extra long gear like things that you run the tube through, it's great for corrugating thin metal as well. I doubt it would work as well as a Microfold Brake for a lot of tasks, but for occasional light duty pieces it'll do the trick.
You just put the metal in the gears, turn the handle a few times, and you have your corrugated metal. For another interesting effect, anneal the sheet then feed it back through with the first corrugation perpendicular to the gears. You can also pinch the folds together on one side of a longer sheet to make curves. Or make tiny pinches in multiple areas for other cool looks. Of course, I have no idea how many other effects you can achieve, but I am sure the number is limitless. That's a lot of learning I have ahead of me.
And, the best part about it, when you get the metal going through, it makes a really cool noise. ;P